Hanoi's West Lake

West Lake, Hanoi

Hanoi, located in the north of Vietnam, is a city like no other. Charming buildings of French colonial
architecture, lakes that dot the cityscape, culinary influences from all over the world, and motorbikes
that fill the streets…. I have fallen for this burgeoning mega-city. I wander through the back alleys,
meander through side streets, find hidden cafes, traverse the hectic traffic roads because there are
no sidewalks, cars and motorbikes buzz dangerously close to me. I usually have a destination in mind:
explore a new neighborhood market, visit Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum, try the delicious pho restaurant
suggested by a new pal… Imagine New York City on steroids, now set that city in 1931, add a dose of
Beijing in 1980. Color it with car and motorbike exhaust.

One of the lake’s of Hanoi is West Lake. In Vietnamese, it is Ho Tay, an enormous body of water
that essentially has it’s section of the city (the neighborhood is called Tay Ho). The lake creates an
idyllic setting and is protected by a gorgeous green-copper colored wrought iron gate with the symbol
of Hanoi in its center. For a Hanoi-beginner like me, the lake becomes the landmark for which direction
to travel how to get back “home.” 

Biking around the lake is about 9 miles and takes about an hour. On the bike, I have a heightened
awareness of space as I share the road (more like the game the Fast and the Furious on the road)
with thousands of motorbikes and cars. Traffic rules do not apply here. At all. It is a thrill to be on a bike,
but the danger level is high: cars cut me off, motorbikes squeeze me out, and potholes need to be dodged
with quick reflexes. 

There are parts of West Lake that are more scenic and quiet. On these streets, there are tree-lined with
a variety of different species; some are flowering trees with small red buds, some are large willowy trees
with branches that hang low, and others have large palm fronds that reach high in the air. The greenery
adds to the lakeside beauty and tranquility.

Always the adventurer, I have taken the inflatable kayak out on the lake a few times already. The
perspective from the water always offers a new vista. I kayaked up to some shrimpers in an old
fishing boat. Some middle aged men sat on a small pier casting a line next to the “no fishing” sign.
There are certainly fish to catch! A few jumped out of the lake and back in while I attempted to
cross the lake. I want to take the kayaks out for a night adventure, but I am too scared… night kayaking
in a huge city, what could go wrong?! I will keep you posted if I eventually try it!

Lake life is slower paced than the downtown, or even the busy road Xuan Dieu that bisects the
neighborhood. In the morning, elderly Vietnamese men come out to the lake to exercise: They do
a variety of stretches and sets of leg and arm lifts. A number of people bike around the lake as well.
In the evening, the lake becomes a sort of “lovers lane” where young couples sit on the descending
steps and hold hands. Last night, there were groups of young folks who made a few bonfires and
sat around to enjoy the cool and clear evening. 

Every morning, I have a view of the lake. From my window, I can gauge if there is a steady breeze
(which is a good sign!) or if there is stagnant air. If I can see across the lake to the downtown area,
I know the air pollution might not be too bad today. Often times, the other side is obscured by heavy
smog that lingers. Time to grab the mask… More on the air quality issues later. That topic deserves a
post in itself!

In his beautiful album “Ha Noi Eternelle,” author Renault-Hoang noted: “With its islets of verdure,
its lakes with lotus in their banks, its boulevards lined with tamarind and flame trees which cast their
appeasing shade on the facades of ancient colonial buildings, Ha Noi diffuses a subtle, discreet, even
secret and magic charm. One does not admire Ha Noi, one is not infatuated with the town for some time.
One is attached to Ha Noi.” 

So that is it: With my heart strings, I am attached to Hanoi. This crazy city that radiates such intense
and beautiful energy: we are attached. Chúng tôi được đính kèm.

Getting Ready For Take Off!

I have always loved maps.

Books filled with places with distinct names, islands that seem perfectly distant, detailed legends, and jagged coastlines. Thinking about the cartographer who created the map, I wonder what information was known at the time of design and how many details might have been left up to the creative imagination. Maps represent not only physical places, but also histories and peoples, groups that intersected and overlapped, and changes over time. Name changes, too: Once Siam, now Thailand; originally Ceylon, now Sri Lanka; Northern Rhodesia is now Zimbabwe... how places change and yet retain some characteristics of itself.

I found this antique map of Southeast Asia from 1780.